Friday, March 30, 2007

Siena dining

In addition to the dining suggestions already listed on my website (click here for more information) check out these new reviews.

Boccon del Prete (17 via San Pietro; ph: 0577.280.388). We have eaten here a number of times in the past two years and returned again on March 23. The food and service was ecellent, as usual, well priced and very nice wine list. If you have any questions ask for suggestions about which wine to have with your dinner. They love to help. The good news is they now take credit cards.

Il Vecchio Pozzo (33 viale Sclavo; ph: 0577.271.095). Very tasty food, family-oriented lots of locals eat here. Located in the lower level of the Hotel Arcobaleno, ample parking off viale Sclavo.

Our Senesi friends Aimone and Alessandra (well OK Ale is really from Livorno but she really, really likes Siena) suggest the following places inside the walls (the first three are "cheap n' good"):

Il Grattacielo, on Arco delle Tran

Trombicche, on via delle Terme

Permalico, on Costa di San Antonio

"Expensive but OK" is Taverna San Giuseppe, on via Dupre -- this place was also recommended to us by two women who had been staying at the Arcobaleno at the same time we were there.

Siena accommodation

During our recent return to Siena we had the opportunity to check out several accommodations, two just outside the walls and one in the surrounding Tuscan countryside.

Le Meridiane. One place we wanted to go back this trip was Le Meridiane where we had stayed in 1999 and again for two months in 2005. We met up with Angela who manages the property for her brother Andrea, and she was kind enough to show us the changes that had occurred since we were there last.

First off in the original building where we had stayed they are in the process of undertaking major remodeling of the rooms and that was good news. Second, they have finished the final phase of new apartments, all quite spacious with plenty of room and most with very nice views of the city.

They presently have a total of 27 apartments , with a large in-ground pool and two huge underground parking complexes:


Also available is a wonderful two-floor common area, outdoor wood-fired barbecue space and plenty of play space for children. One of the reasons we enjoyed Le Meridiane so much is that you can leave your car and take the bus into town (15 minutes to the city center) and this still makes it a good value. And speaking of value the prices are still some of the most reasonable in the area. Aside from a required 3-night's minimum in the summer, one can rent for any length of time they choose beginning any day of the week, no required Saturday-to-Saturday like so many other vacation self-catering rentals.

They do not presently offer internet connection in the apartments. And regarding kitchen facilities the referigerators tend to be the small undercounter models, and while some apartments did have four-burner cooktops others just had a two-burner unit. No ovens are presently available.

A very different sort of place is Fattoria Montestigliano. Managed by British-born Susan Pennington, the fattoria, a working farm, is only about 15 kms from Siena, perched on a high hill providing some of the most specatcular views not only of the Tuscan countryside but of Siena as well.


The apartments are really more individual "homes" and are all quite spacious (some in fact are very large indeed, designed for upwards to 10 and 12 people), and very well appointed. Parking is ample here and the views, as already mentioned are stunning. Two very large pools are available (Susan refers to them as the "quiet" pool and the "noisy" pool).

Each "house" has its own terrace, sitting area where one can just imagine sitting sitting a glass of prosecco on a warm summer evening before going inside and cook up some fresh pasta bought just that day, mixed with tomatoes, parsley, and whatever else tickles your fancy.


Speaking of food there are two meals provided during the minimum week stay, otherwise you're on your own. Susan is a walking wealth of local information and can help provide you with suggestions for just about anything you might want to see or do in the area.

During our four-day trip to Siena we stayed at the Hotel Arcobaleno. This hotel is located about a 20-minute walk from the Porta Camollia, the nearest entrance in to the city center. Breakfast was good, the coffee delicious, and a little bar is available for a late afternoon aperitivo or cup of tea or espresso. For a small fee internet service is available, including Wi-Fi.

There is a very good restaurant located on the lower level, the Il Vecchio Pozzo (the old well).

The rooms are nice, the staff incredibly friendly; one in particular, Cristiana is a real gem and you should ask for her when you check in. The rooms are clean, well-appointed and we thought reasonably priced (online at any rate). (photo below: entrance to the hotel off of via Fiorentina.)


The downside is the potential for noise, particularly in the summer time -- it's on a main street coming into the city from the north. While the parking is free it can be a bit hit-and-miss depending on how many guests are staying at the hotel. So check in early.

Although this is largely about Siena I did want to mention Cascina delle Rose, a place we stayed in the Piemonte region, in the tiny hamlet of Tre Stelle just outside of the village of Barbaresco. For food and wine lovers Piemonte is probably the center of the universe. Giovanna, our hostess at this wonderful bed and breakfast produces her own Barbaresco in fact and was very helpful in helping us find our way around the steep hills and vineyards and lovely villages to discover one delicious meal and wine after a another. Oh and I should also mention, although I'm not original in this thought, but Giovanna's rooms have probably the best showers in Italy. Trust me on this.

For more images from this trip click here!

Thursday, March 29, 2007

New podcast online!

Would you like to listen to some Italian? Check out the latest podcast interview from Tuscany; just click here!

Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Siena road trip

We're just back in Paris after a whirlwind trip to Italy.

I'll be posting some lodging and accommodation reviews here shortly and of course will also update the sienaitaly.com website as well with a few bits of helpful information for the traveler to the heart of Tuscany.

Stay tuned!

Ciao,

Steve

Tuesday, March 20, 2007

New podcast online!

The latest podcast from our series Voices of Tuscany is online.

Listen (in Italian of course) to Giancarlo talking to Roberto Bechi about his 40 plus years working as an independent fruit and vegetable grocer in Serre di Rapolano just outside of Siena. You can click on the link in the sidebar on the right or just click here!

Buon viaggio!

Steve

Sunday, March 18, 2007

We're off this Wednesday, off to Siena!

This coming Wednesday morning Susie and I leave our Paris apartment and walk to the Gare de Lyon where we catch an early morning TGV to Nice, pick up a rental car and rive to Siena.

I'll have the computer along with me so I'll be updating the blog and the website throughout the week or so that we'll be in sunny Italy. I'm particularly eager to add several new accommodation and restaurant reviews, so . . .

Stay tuned!

Ciao,

Steve

Thursday, March 1, 2007

Hot news in Italy

Some of the top news stories coming out of Italy recently:

Marriages on the decline in Italy
Parmesan cheese is good for birds
Ennio Morricone gets his Oscar at last
Italy is getting ready for the San Remo songfest

(Compliments of Italymag.com)

Ciao,

Steve